Friday, October 20, 2023

Goryō (御霊)


The Gion Festival (祇園祭, Gion Matsuri) is one of the largest and most famous festivals in Japan, taking place annually during the month of July in Kyoto. Many events take place in central Kyoto and at the Yasaka Shrine, the festival's patron shrine, located in Kyoto's famous Gion district, which gives the festival its name. It is formally a Shinto festival, and its original purposes were purification and pacification of disease-causing entities. There are many ceremonies held during the festival, but it is best known for its two Yamaboko Junkō (山鉾巡行) processions of floats, which take place on July 17 and 24.

 

The three nights leading up to each day of a procession are sequentially called yoiyoiyoiyama (宵々々山), yoiyoiyama (宵々山), and yoiyama (宵山). During these yoiyama evenings, Kyoto's downtown area is reserved for pedestrian traffic, and some traditional private houses near the floats open their entryways to the public, exhibiting family heirlooms in a custom known as the Folding Screen Festival (屏風祭り, Byōbu Matsuri). Additionally, the streets are lined with night stalls selling food such as yakitori (barbecued chicken on skewers), taiyaki, takoyaki (fried octopus balls), okonomiyaki, traditional Japanese sweets, and many other culinary delights. The Gion Festival originated during an epidemic as part of a purification ritual ...
- From the Wikipedia entry on Gion Matsuri



In a broad sense, Goryō (御霊) is an honorific for a spirit, especially one that causes hauntings, and the term is used as a synonym for onryō (怨霊, vengeful Japanese ghosts).
- From the Wikipedia entry on Goryō



The potato was almost too hot to hold in spite of the clean white paper wrapper. It was slit at the top and steam poured out of it, liquifying a huge slab of white butter. Oscar took a leisurely bite of it, allowing the butter to drench his moustache and run across his cheeks and into his beard, savoring everything: the fluffy texture of the baked potato flesh, the salt, and the sweet fat of the churned cream. He waited a moment, chewing, eyes closed and face tilted to the sky, and then took a slow slug of icy golden lager. He wiped the back of his wrist and hand across his mouth to clean off the molten milkfat and looked up. Sanae was watching him, her eyes liquid in the late afternoon light, a smile on her face, shoulders relaxed. It made him happy to see her like this.

They were in Sanae’s homeland of Japan. They arrived slightly over a week ago, to visit her parents, and while they were there, it had been stressful for Sanae; she was constantly translating. Oscar spoke a bit of the language – “enough to get into trouble but not enough to get out,” as he said, and though he managed to make do with body language and his limited vocabulary when he was on his own, there had still been a lot of demands on Sanae. So when the opportunity came along for the two of them to get away, they jumped at it. They had traveled together first to Nara, and then on to Kyoto. Oscar had wanted to see the old temples and palaces, and they had not disappointed – the Golden Pavilion and Kiyo-Mizu Dera in particular were breathtaking.

Now, they had arrived at the Gion Matsuri – an old, old festival in Kyoto. He had been told it originated in the eighth century during an epidemic, and was a ritual to prevent calamities. A cab had dropped them out at the festival grounds, and they walked past barriers meant to keep cars away and onto a street where the festival was being held. People milled about and food vendors here and there were setting up their stalls or hawking their wares. Sanae bought a few dumplings, but Oscar’s nose had caught something else that smelled absolutely wonderful to him. He hadn’t realized how much dairy he ate until he arrived here – her family had a fairly traditional Japanese diet. The food had been good – miso soup and vegetables and rice that the family grew themselves, incredibly fresh and delicious – but he didn’t care very much for seafood generally. He wished that were different – it would have made life with Sanae simpler, certainly. And he thought Japanese seafood was beautiful. But he just didn’t like the taste of it very much, and so, though he always found something he could eat, he hadn’t felt truly satiated since they arrived. And now the smell of butter wafted through the air and it made him salivate. They tracked the smell to a vendor who was selling jagabata – grilled potato and rich butter from Hokkaido – and Oscar bought one along with a bottle of beer and dove in.

It was, at that moment, one of the best things he had ever tasted. The beer, too, went down smoothly and tasted wonderful. There was something to be said for the pleasure of drinking like this, having a cold beer in the dwindling light of an incredibly hot and humid Kyoto afternoon, as others did the same, everyone in a celebratory mood. Sanae ate her dumpling and he ate his potato and they lost themselves in the simple joy of being. I wish this moment could go on forever, he thought, maybe heaven is a place where nothing ever changes.

He took in his surroundings. More and more people were arriving to the festival. About a block ahead, at an intersection, Oscar could see a massive float sitting on the pavement, the gold and red of it blazing in the setting sun. It dwarfed the people surrounding it, gleaming with ornate gilded woodwork and colorful decorations.

“If we get separated, meet me back here at the base of that float,” he said, gesturing towards it.

“Oscar, if we get separated, get a cab and get back to the hotel,” Sanae replied, a little more sharply than was necessary, Oscar thought. But he wasn’t about to let that ruin the moment. He and Sanae strolled through the crowd towards the float. Now and then she would stop and look at a vendor’s wares while Oscar watched the people around him. It had become quite busy, with people all over the place as they arrived at the intersection where the float stood.  As he scanned the corridors made by the buildings he could see more floats, many more floats, all of them very much like the one they stood at the foot of, an endless number of them in every direction excepting the one they had come from. The floats stood at each and every intersection as far as he could see, disappearing into the distance.

He appreciated why she had told him to get a cab and get back to the hotel if they got separated.

It really was becoming crowded now as the sun set. People milled about, young women in fabulous and colorful yukatas, one a pale pink with bright red chrysanthemums and a dark blue sash, one night blue with pink plum blooms and a bright yellow obi, one royal blue with white cherry blossoms and a grass green belt. All of them accompanied by giggling friends wearing equally brilliant patterns, or escorted by young men in more masculine robes, jagged sea blue stripes on a grey background shot with geometric tessellations in pale green foam, or a textured charcoal yukata with a white belt that looked as though it had been touched with a calligrapher’s brush, another wearing azure, dragons outlined in white wrapped around his body from head to toe.  And there were people in western wear and more formal kimono as well, all of them swirling around him and Sanae as they moved through the maze of humanity. He gripped her hand tightly as she led him through the throng and glanced around.

It was then he got his first glimpse of the monster.

He saw it through the crowd, and it truly was just a glimpse, gone almost before he registered it was there. It had appeared out of a profusion of floats and bodies, a riot of colors and sounds and textures surrounding it, and was swallowed almost instantly by the multitudes. For that one moment, he saw it clearly and was absolutely transfixed by the sight of it, his blood seeming to stop suddenly in his veins as he experienced an instant of almost pure terror and confusion.

It brought to mind pictures he had seen that were supposed to simulate having a stroke, where everything was almost, but not quite, recognizable. You would get the impression of a kitchen, perhaps, though there certainly wasn’t anything you could identify as a kitchen in the picture. This bit of the photo looked like it should be a curtain partially covering a window, perhaps, and this bit looked as though it should be a clear jar filled perhaps with coffee beans or some sort of spice. The problem was, even though that’s what you wanted to see, the picture didn’t actually show those things. What was truly there was a meaningless glob of colors and shapes that made no sense at all, information that was completely un-processible. So as much as your eye wanted to see a flower or maybe a rooster’s head with its comb, what was actually in front of you was incomprehensible.

That’s what looking at the monster was like. Only, instead of getting the impression of a kitchen, Oscar’s eye gave him the impression of a human being. But past that, he couldn’t actually identify anything – there were parts that looked almost like eyes, and a nose, and something that looked very nearly like hair, and the overall shapes and colors were close – but nothing was right, in the end it was meaningless almost-patterns of skin and tissue and things that looked like they might be clothes but absolutely, in the final analysis, weren’t. And in that moment, his mind screamed at him: “It’s a monster! Oh my god, it is a monster, a real monster!”

The thing was swallowed by the bodies of the crowd and a moment later he was no longer certain just what he had seen. Maybe I just saw a bunch of people together and got confused, he thought. But it was difficult to convince himself, and he was left with a nagging sensation that he had seen something secret and terrible.

Finally, he made up his mind that it must be someone with some kind of awful birth defect, or someone who had been in a fire or had some kind of industrial accident, and he told himself he had no right to feel horrified by them the way he had. If anything, it was sad. The person must be lonely, he thought, but in spite of this internal monologue, he didn’t feel sad.  He had seen something that repelled him, and felt a deep loathing and repugnance that mingled with the perverse desire to see it again, to confirm just how hideous it was. And yet, he was afraid to see it again as well, though he did not know why, only that the sight was upsetting in a way that he could not articulate. In turn, this feeling led to a kind of shame – he had been raised with the idea that all human beings deserved understanding and compassion and had taken that to heart. In his work in the burn unit he had seen plenty of people who had been through terrible things, some of whom were injured beyond the capacity for speech. One lady in particular came to mind, a woman who had been trapped in her car after an accident, who had to wait, ensnared, as the hungry fire came to devour her, eating her fingers, eyes, lips, tongue and nose as it worked its way across her body.  She was terrible to look upon, but he felt compassion for her. But for some reason he could not identify, he was unable to summon any compassion whatsoever for the thing he had seen through the crowd. He hated it, and though he was ashamed of his hate, it would not go away.

He had decided to stop ruminating on it and put the thing out of his mind when he realized he had lost Sanae. She was no longer with him. He spun about, looking for her wildly. When had she let go of his hand? he wondered. Was it when they stopped momentarily to look at the takoyaki seller’s wares? He seized on this idea and turned around to make his way through the horde to the vendor, who was shouting at the top of his lungs. “Irasshaimase! Irasshaimase! Irasshaimase!”

But as he got to the stall he realized it was not the same stall they had approached earlier, not the same man shouting, and as he listened to the peddler hawking his goods, he realized he could hear at least three other people over the din of the mob shouting the same thing: “Irasshaimase! Irasshaimase! Irasshaimase!”  Which one of them did we stop at? he wondered, the icy fingers of panic beginning to tickle his bowels.

Desperate now, he pushed his way through the mass to the other vendors, looking wildly about for Sanae. But he didn’t see her, and none of the vendors looked familiar. He made his way along in the general direction they had been going, wondering if he could perhaps find something to stand on so he could see over the heads of the crowd. But he feared even if he did so, he wouldn’t be able to identify her. The sun had truly set while he had been casting about for her, and now the festival was lit only by street signs in wild neon kana, glowing festival lanterns, and the fires of the food vendors. It was rapidly becoming too dark to pick faces from the masses.

Resigned, he decided it would be best to follow her advice, and make his way out of the section of Kyoto set aside for the festival and to try to get a cab back to the hotel. He reassured himself with the idea that she would be waiting in their room, and would scold him for being so careless when he got back. He wasn’t certain which way they had come from, and scanning the skyline he couldn’t see Kyoto Tower, which he had been using to orient himself.  He resolved to walk in one direction until he was out of the festival and set out to what he thought was the west. He had a vague idea that their hotel was in that direction. The lights and yukatas and decorated floats had lost their charm for him at this point and he put his head down, his shoulders up, and bulled and pushed his way through the crowd. After a length of time he looked up and for a split second he thought he saw the monster again, off in the distance through the partying rabble, a shape that should make sense but simply didn’t.

Then a teenager walking with his friends stumbled into him and would have fallen if Oscar hadn’t caught him. On pure instinct, Oscar grabbed at his robe as the kid fell, and managed to seize the cloth of a sleeve in his fist. Helpless in the inertia of his fall, the teenager would have tumbled face first into the ground if not for Oscar. He mumbled something at Oscar as he swayed back to his feet, only to overbalance and go spinning back towards his friends, who tittered at his drunkenness. The group moved on and as they made their way into the night he shuddered and glanced back in the direction of the monster, but instead of the horrible thing, he saw Sanae.

Relief flooded him. She was walking away from him, but it was her, undoubtedly and absolutely her. He recognized the clothing – not a yukata, but western-style clothes, jeans and a black camisole top – and her purse, a handbag made of soft, fine inden-ya, deerskin dyed black with a red lacquered dragonfly pattern covering it. But more than either of those he recognized her walk: the short, hesitant steps, the ever-so-slightly pigeon-toed gait that carried her slender, delicate frame.

“Sanae!” he called out. But she didn’t seem to hear him. He started after her, and called her name again, loud enough that heads swung his way as she turned a corner and slipped from view.

He really was pushing people out of the way now as he fought through the horde. He turned the corner and found that the crowd began to thin out here. He saw her ahead, perhaps two blocks away. This time she turned right, down an alley that ran at a diagonal to the avenue they were on. It was still a little too crowded to run, but he figured he had finally made it to the outskirts of the fairground. He began to jog, moving as quickly as he could towards the alley.

He followed the path she had taken and as he rounded the next corner in pursuit of her, he glanced ahead and saw her silhouette in an open doorway filled with dim light. Then the door slid shut, plunging the area into shadow.

He stopped short. What is going on? he wondered. He took in his surroundings and as he did, he became more confused and concerned. This was an empty, winding alley. He seemed to have left the crowd behind completely and that worried him. He didn’t see a single soul here, just the black shapes of buildings blocking the starlight. After the lanterns and the fires and neon signs, it seemed almost desolate here, and quite dark, and he wondered what she was thinking, coming down here.

He walked along towards the door, casting about for anything that might explain her behavior, and he realized suddenly how silent it was here, and how oppressive the shadows truly were. He could barely make any details out as he stumbled along, and as he neared the door he had seen Sanae go into, he stopped again, unsure.

What on earth is she doing here? he wondered, spiders of apprehension crawling around his belly.

It seemed so incredibly out of character for her. Sanae was the kind of person that was always where she said she was going to be when she said she was going to be there. It was very odd that she would visit some home in Kyoto instead of just getting a cab and heading to the hotel to meet him. At least he assumed it was a home. Then he recalled being told about the Folding Screen Festival, a part of the Gion Matsuri where people opened their homes and displayed family heirlooms.  Perhaps this is part of that? he wondered. But everything felt off, wrong. 

He looked at the door again. His heart began to beat faster. Perhaps I should just get back to the hotel.  Maybe it's not her, he thought. But he knew it was her. He was confident about that, if nothing else. He knocked at the door and waited, then knocked again, harder.

No answer.

Finally he tried the handle, and finding the door unlocked, he slid it to the side. It was even darker inside than it was out, everything cast in impenetrable gloom save a small circle of starlight that shone through the door. It revealed a pair of strappy black sandals. Sanae's sandals. He recognized them.

He stepped inside, leaving the door open behind him and called out, “Konbanwa? Sumimasen...

There was no reply but he had the sense of something moving very stealthily in the interior darkness.  

“Hello?” he called, squeezing the word out of a throat that suddenly seemed like it wanted to close shut. The sweat that had cooled him in the humid Kyoto night now felt cold and clammy on his body, and his heart was beating like a triphammer. He could actually feel the blood pulse in his temples and pounding through his chest. He thought briefly of the monster in the crowd. There was a bang from the back of the room and the shadows shifted as he jumped and spun towards the noise. Then there was a whirring, clicking sound. Something about the size of a cat was approaching him. He braced himself, all his senses telling him to turn and run, to flee this place and never return.

The thing slid smoothly into the light and he gasped.  It was a tiny man.  He held a plate with a teacup on it. The little man neared him and halted just a few inches from his legs, then suddenly bowed his head and raised his tray with a jerk, offering him the teacup. Oscar nearly screamed, but realized just as he began that this wasn't a man at all.  It was a robot. A karakuri robot – an automata from the 17th century or so made to move with whalebone springs and strings, something like an old wind up toy, only much, much more sophisticated. It had its hair styled with a topknot, like an old fashioned nobleman, and it wore a hakama and a tiny man's kimono.  The deep blue and grey of the cloth and the black hair made the white paint on its wooden face seem very pale in the small ring of light.

He laughed in relief. This must be part of the Folding Screen Festival. Sanae was having a bit of fun with him, that was all. He bent down to take the cup in both hands, and lifting it from the tray triggered the karakuri to start up again. It slowly turned around and headed back into the darkness from which it came. His eyes followed it to a slim, feminine form in the shadows that he had not been able to pick out of the darkness earlier. Thank goodness, he thought, it's her.

“Sanae?” he called. “Honey?”

“I am here, my dear one,” came a voice as hard as the slamming of a coffin lid and as cold as the air in an emptied grave. Oscar’s breath caught in his throat as the lights came on and he could see everything for the first time.

“Oh God!” he shrieked, “Oh God! Oh God!”

Tuesday, October 10, 2023

Arms and Armor at the Art Institute of Chicago

A few days ago my wife and I decided to go to the Art Institute of Chicago. It is one of my favorite places in the city, perhaps in the world - there are so many beautiful and thought-provoking pieces there. If you are ever in the city, put it on the top of your list. It really is a world class collection, and I wanted to talk about one of the highlights from this trip - the new Arms and Armor gallery.  The last time we went, this, my favorite exhibit, was closed as they redid the gallery. I’ve loved that exhibit ever since I was a little kid. I was totally blown away the first time I saw it, and it continues to be a source of fascination for me.

I've always been enthralled by art depicting weapons and weapons that are pieces of art. As a kid, I enjoyed the Osprey books (of which I now have like two hundred pee dee effs) as well as black and white illustration - things like David Macaulay's Castle, or various pictorial archives and encyclopedias of weaponry such as A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration and Use of Arms and Armor: in All Countries and in All Times.  I loved the artwork not just of beings but also of weapons in the various tomes I had collected - the MM, PH, and DMG of course, but also Deities and Demigods (with the Cthulhu and Melnibonean mythos!  Sadly long gone now) and a handful of modules - White Plume Mountain, Expedition to the Barrier Peaks, The Lost Caverns of Tsojcanth, etc.  I used to sketch weapons when I was younger - swords mostly, but not always.

The elaborate fantasy scenarios I imagined as a kid, inspired by Dungeons & Dragons, were enriched by visits to the museum and being able to see real examples of the arms and armor.   This time around I took a lot of photos and wanted to share a few here. More professional photos of almost the entire collection are online as well at https://www.artic.edu/collection.  Most of what is on display is European from about 1500 - 1700, but the collection includes much more modern weaponry as well.  For example, though it isn't currently on display, there is a pretty extensive collection of firearms from 1850 to 1970 or so, everything from Colt Navy Revolvers to Lugers to a Walther Model PPKS Semi-Automatic Pistol, all rather tastefully gilded and decorated by Raymond Wielgus.





This stuff is invaluable as a reference for writers and artists who want to describe unique weapons and armor, and of course, they are all quite beautiful.  Blinging out one's tools of death seems to be a pretty universal thing, doesn't it? Writing this made me remember visiting Odawara Castle - the interior of that castle has been converted to a museum and one of the things they have on display are swords.  I was looking at one of these, a katana with all the hardware removed, no handle or guard, just the blade itself - and a little boy and his mom were nearby.  I heard the mom say something like "Kono o mite!" - "Hey look at this!" and the kid, maybe seven or eight years old, running up to the glass and exclaiming "Kireii!" - "Pretty!"  And he was right.  The blade was beautiful.  It seemed to be almost equal parts a deep carbon grey and white, gleaming in the museum lights.  And there was an absolutely gorgeous hamon that ran its length in the koshi no hiraita style, an undulating wave dividing light from dark - something like this blade:


As a species, we seem to have a fascination with beautiful, deadly things. They are such strong images, when used in art they sometimes leave an impression that outlasts the plot or even the characters. I think of Terminus Est, or the Judge's silver-chased rifle inscribed with "Et In Arcadia Ego." I forget the names of even fairly major characters in the New Sun series or in Blood Meridian, but I retain the images of those weapons.

Some of the engraving, carving, and etching on display at the museum and it is breathtaking. Some is intricate and witchy, some is simple and bold. Some of it is even funny! And since you are very likely tired of listening to me ramble, I'll get to the meat of this post without further ado.


Armor (and polearms) for the Papal Swiss Guards (1590, decoration in 1623-24)

The cuirass and pauldrons are ornamented with deep-blue and gold and were likely dispersed from the Vatican armory centuries ago.  The helmet features the portrait and coat of arms of Pope Julius III and dates earlier than the armor.

The Guard of the Electors of Saxony (~1580)

The electors of Saxony retained one of the more extravagant bodyguard units in Europe, with over 100 men on horseback and on foot. Each succeeding elector ordered a new series of weapons ornamented with his personal device or coat of arms - an ostentatious display

As the electors derived much of their wealth from the Saxon silver mines, they equipped their officers with swords and daggers adorned with silver plaques. The morion is painted black with gilt etching to match the guard’s black-and-gold livery. Guards mounted on horseback carried a pair of wheellock pistols, or puffers, while those on foot bore staff weapons such as this glaive and halberd. The powder flask features a carved figure of a Saxon guard from about 1600.


The Guard of the Electors of Saxony (~1580)

Helmet detail.



The Guard of the Electors of Saxony (~1580)

Matched pistols detail.



Armor for Man and Horse  (1520)

This is one of the first things you see when you walk in and it is IMPRESSIVE. Picturing this dude riding you down is kinda scary. This is not for a "noble knight" but a hired man-at-arms.



Heavy Cavalry (Cuirassier) Helm (1620-40)

Speaking of scary, look at this fucking thing, with the nasty little pointy teeth showing in the thin smile and the great empty eye sockets.  I kind of want to do a painting of someone wearing this.  There's actually a lot more of this, a composite suit of armor for heavy cavalry that includes a full upper torso and tassets.



Heavy Cavalry - unfortunately I don't have much more info on this one.



Armor for the Joust (~1560)

The feathers  and trappings are a recreation - apparently only about a dozen examples of original horse trappings survive from the time period.  Really gives you an idea what a tournament would have been like.  The lance is looooooong.



Infantry Armor and Targe (1590-1600)

This would have been a noble's armor.  The bands on this one depict various Labors of Hercules.  The design of this armor was to protect the upper body while leaving the legs unarmored for fast movement.  The spike and petals at the center of the shield were intended to catch and divert an opponent's bladed weapon.



Armor for Field and Tourney with Plackart (1550-60)

The plackart (an additional, reinforcing breastplate) which is displayed beside the armor provided an optional second layer to protect against firearms or heavy hits from a lance.



Composite Field Armor (1510-20)

This suit is drawn from different armors from the same period.  The composite represents a typical field harness intended for heavy cavalry armed with lance and sword.  The globular form of the breastplate, bellows-shaped visor, and fluted / rippled surfaces classify it as a "Maximillian" armor, so named after the Holy Roman Emperor Maximillian I, who popularized this style.



Lots of swords (1200 -1500)

The plaque describes an emerging arms industry as certain regions became famous for the quality of their arms.  It mentions southern Germany, the Rhineland, and Milan in Italy as among the most notable.



More of the stuff in the same case as above.




Portions of a Field Armor for Man and Horse (~1525)

The two people who worked on this harness were considered a dream team - Kolman Helmschmid (the work is right there in his name!) was considered the most innovative armorer of his generation, while Daniel Hopfer is credited as the first artist to translate the armor-decorating technique of acid etching into a printmaking medium.
Nobles often ordered their armor from a distance.  This suit has adjustments to the rivets and cut edges that reveal it was modified to better fit its owner.



I love these huge two-handed swords!  This mounted collection, from left to right:
Two Handed Sword (1580-1600)
Halberd (1500-1550)
Infantry Armor and Bergonet (~1560 I think - hard to read)
Halberd (1500-1550)
Two Handed Sword (1580-1600)



Various Rapiers (1550 -1630)



Sadly, I didn't take a picture of the placard for this beautiful saber (?) and I cannot find it in the collection database at the Art Institute site.



Again, I cannot for the life of me find any information about this gemstone-studded sword on the Art Institute site and I forgot to get a picture of the accompanying plaque.  But it's really something and I'd like to know more about it!



Boar spears, what I suspect is a heavy crossbow in the middle with a few other crossbows nearby, various swords and guns - I think the centerpiece stag's head is from the same time period, but I am not certain.



Triple-Barreled Wheellock Pistol (1610-20) - Top

The half minute needed to wind and load a wheellock pistol led to the invention of various multilock and multibarrel systems. Here three independent pistols are stocked together with alternating triggers.

To fire the weapon, the shooter need only rotate the grip on the gun and pull the next trigger.




Wheellock / Matchlock Gun (1580-1600)



Another beautiful stock



Wheellock Rifle of Archduke Charles of Styria (1571)

The engraving on this is just amazing.  The cheek shows the Judgement of Paris.  Further up is Cleopatra committing suicide with an adder at her breast.




Wheellock Rifle of Emperor Leopold I (1664)

The carvings on this are wild – they show a hunter roasting on a spit with his faithful hound in a cauldron.  There is a German inscription along the rifle translates as:

To us hares came the chance that we could roast dog and huntsman who formerly skinned and ate us.  We avenge them with these measures.




Combined Axe-Flintlock Gun - Dagger (1660-80)

What an insane contraption. I love it!  and of course the inlay is gorgeous.



The axe part.



Detail of the Axe-Flintlock-Dagger



Another detail from the Axe-Flintlock-Dagger

A hound chasing a stag in this VERY close up on the last piece.


I have many more photos but that's all I'll subject you to for the moment.  And check out the site -I'm pretty certain that only 50% or less of the collection is on display, but there are photos over there of just about everything I think.  

The other major highlight from this trip was an exhibition devoted to the works of Remedios Varo which opened this last summer.  I was not very familiar with Varo's work before seeing this exhibit - I think the only reason I was aware at all is probably because of the Was It Likely blog (bless you Screwhead for your exquisite taste in art and for attributing all of it).  I really enjoyed it.  As I examined her work, it struck me that she and John Blanche have stylistic similarities.  I hope I get a chance to do a write up on that next time around!